Camping in the Cederberg

I spent a few days camping in Sanddrif – an unspoilt and secluded spot at the foot of the mountains, which offered brilliant facilities – ranging from lush, grassy patches to pitch the tent, pristine hot showers, electricity and plug points aplenty and a river running parallel to our site. 

Visiting in February, the hottest month in South Africa, the weather was dry and incredibly warm. Each day went to about 35 degrees celsius – so drinking enough water and applying layers of sunscreen on the regular was mandatory. 

Planning a trip yourself? Here are my top 5 things to do while camping in the Cederberg.

1. Climb the Wolfberg Cracks

The most famous, strenuous and challenging hike in the Cederberg, and with reason! As a novice, I would recommend opting for the wider cracks, and giving yourself 5 – 6 hours to complete the trek from start to finish. The 2 hour hike up the trail path is not too bad, but once you reach the cliff-faces, the real adventure begins. I was with experienced climbers, and so we naturally chose the narrow cracks. I’m pleased to say I only cried once. I had managed to make my way up the first boulder, which is a class 4 scramble, through a pitch dark formation of other rocks and hung on for dear life, while I was pushed and pulled at both ends to safety. Once on my feet I found myself perched on a narrow cliff ledge trying my best not to look down. Next up is what they call “the chimney” a path that needs to be crawled under on your back or “ace up” in order for you to squirm out the other side or be yanked up by a fellow climber! I felt like a mummy being pulled out of a coffin, and so, it is not for the claustrophobic! The climb is most definitely worth the reward and as you arrive at the top, you’re greeted by vast wilderness and breathtaking landscape. 

Top Tip: Make sure you get to the start of the trail at least by 6.30am as you want to beat the sun. Take plenty of water and of course, great hiking shoes / trainers. Lastly, don’t forget your permit, which can be bought at reception (R25 per person) This is relatively cheap – another bonus as to why you should be camping in the Cederberg!

2. Take a stroll around Lot’s Wife

The bible story of Lot’s wife who disobeyed God and got turned into a pillar of salt comes to life on this easy and really enjoyable amble. Lot’s wife can be spotted at the very beginning of this hike, looking mightily guilty confessing her sins. Keep your eyes peeled on other rock formations as you will be amazed at what shapes you can find.

Top Tip: I recommend this spot as a sunset walk, as it offers some glorious views and the lighting is superb.

3. Dive in for a Swim at Maalgat 

Nothing beats a natural pond, surrounded by rapids and waterfalls, so get ready to dive into this refreshing pool after a long, active day. Bear in mind that the rock pools are quite a walk away from the actual campsite (Sanddrif) so prepare to prod along for a good 25 minutes each way. Make sure you wear sturdy shoes because there can be some rought terrain, mud and slippery sections. 

Top Tip: Get a rush of adrenaline by jumping off one of the rock faces (around 10m) and take some floating devices to make a day out of it. 

4. Visit the bushmen paintings and Stadsaal

It’s quite something to see genuine bushman paintings on rock, dating back to more than 1,000 years ago – untouched and in their original form. Created using animal hair for paintbrushes, and water, blood and rock for paint, these works of art are delightful and tell a thousand stories, dating back to an important time in South Africa’s history. 

Just a short drive away is the Stadsaal Cave – or the ‘city hall’, known because of its domed shape and foyers. This is where prominent political figures of South Africa gathered during war and have inscribed their names on the rock face. See if you can spot DF Malan and others. Remember to respect the surroundings and to never touch the rock – as this is a heritage site and needs to be preserved. Remember to buy your permits people!

Top Tip: If you’re a photographer – plan to spend some time here, as the opportunities for landscape and nature photography are a dream come true.

5. Book yourself in for wine tasting

Cederberg is a high altitude wine region and so you really should take advantage of the grapes! The area is abundant with vineyards that go on and on for days. Head over to the Sanddrif reception area, where you will find a tasting station right next door (convenient, eh) There are something like 66 wines to choose from with a 50 / 50 ratio between red and white. Yum! From what I know, the vineyards are sustainable and the irrigation water comes right out of the mountain springs.

Top Tip: Why not pair your wine tasting with stargazing? The stars are breathtakingly beautiful, so be sure to gaze away with a glass of wine in your hand.

Have you got any other suggestions of what to do? Have you ever been camping in the Cederberg?

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